|
|
|||||
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
DOUBLE FACE
Double face is generally sourced from 2 types of lamb - new season (higher quality seed free grades, up to 6 months of age) or older shorn lamb (maximum 13 months of age). New Season "Spring" Lambskins - young suckling lambs which have not been shorn. Sometimes known as "Suckers". Production commences about July/August to reach a peak November/December. The early skins are of wool length 1.5 to 2.0 inches. 2.0 to 3.0 inch length is produced September through November. The skins from the majority of these animals are used in the high quality double face garment or for collar and cuff trims. Shorn Lambskins - lambs are shorn and slaughtered throughout most of the year. Shorn lambs come into production about January and continue thereafter in wool lengths commencing at 0.25 and developing as the season progresses to 1.5 to 2.5 inches and longer. Most of these animals are seed affected and therefore only a certain percentage of the total production are used in the garment trade.
Curing - The main curing method used for dressing skins is either wet salting by drum agitation or conveyor salting. Conveyor salting is uncommon and only used in the case where salt contamination of the wool is a major concern such is the case when clean wool recovery is required. Skins are allowed to cool and are then cured within a couple of hours of slaughter. Specially prepared kiln dried salt, containing concentrations of bactericides and special fungicides, is used exclusively in all processing. Skins for fellmongering purposes are generally air dried to prevent contamination of the wool by salt however this practice is becoming less common. Drum Salting - The skins are slowly tumbled for one and a half to two hours to ensure positive penetration of the salt and chemicals into the pelt. The skins are then stacked in flat piles for around 3 to 5 days to allow sufficient time for the body fluids to drain from the skins. Conveyor Salting - The skins are laid flat and passed through a shower of salt on a moving conveyor. The skins are then folded and stacked ensuring even and deep penetration of salt into the pelt. The wool remains relatively free of any salt contamination.
Faults - Double face production requires perfect skins (or as as close to it as possible) so only "seed free" or "light seedy" skins can be used for this production. Seed Contamination - Seed burrows through the skin whilst the animal is living, the result being patches of scar tissue left by the healed wound. After processing this can lead to the scar tissue falling out leaving small holes or alternatively, the scar tissue remains and leaves imperfections in the pelt which are difficult to cover or correct. This is not so important in automotive products as the product is wool face out, the pelt is not seen. There are five descriptions in this category, the first 4 describe soft seed types whilst the last describes hard seed : (a) "Free of Visible Seed" - Visually free of seed any contamination. This does not however mean the skin is free of seed, only visually free. (b) "Light Seed" - Slight seed contamination visible in the wool but minimal mainly concentrated in the belly regions. (c) "Medium Seed" - Light seed contamination is present over most of the wool surface but is concentrated around the bellies and legs. (d) "Heavy Seed" - Heavy contamination extending through most of the wool but especially around the bellies and legs. (e) "Burry" - Wool contaminated with hard seed sometimes/commonly referred to as "Bathurst Burr". Concentration can be from light to heavy. This type of seed can cause problems if it is not removed before the fleshing process as the burr will be punched through the pelt by the feed rollers. Rib Character or Ribby Skins - A general characteristic of the Australian Merino breed is the presence of "rib lines" in the pelt. This "ribby" effect is caused by skin folds which has been bred into Merinos to produce more skin area and hence higher wool yields. The description is derived from the fact these lines tend to follow the same pattern as the rib cage of the animal. The degree of rib is described as light, medium or heavy. Heavy "rib" is generally visible in the wool as well as being plainly visible in the pelt. Excessive rib causes problems during fleshing as skins tend to easily tear along the "rib lines". Shear Scar - Skins freshly shorn of their wool prior to slaughter ( sometimes referred to as "bares" ) are susceptible to shear scar or cuts. This term refers to the open cuts inflicted on the live skin during the shearing process. This damage can be from very light (1 - 2 cuts) to very heavy. In the later case the skin is basically rendered useless for any purpose. Weather Tip - The first 5mm of most wool is weather affected, either by sun, rain or dirt. That is, the wool tip is exposed to the elements so allowance should be made for it's removal to get down to clean wool otherwise during process. This tip will react differently than the rest of the wool fibre during processing. For example during dying the wool tip, because it is sun bleached, will come up a lighter colour than the lower fibre producing a "snow top" like effect. Alternatively this tip can be stained rather than bleached depending on the conditions producing darker patches over the wools surface unless it is removed. Wool Tenderness - skin diseases such as various forms of dermatitis can affect the quality of the wool. There are various other problems such as lice infestation, dead wool, tender wool and regrowth. The longer the wool gets the weaker the fibre becomes.
Wool Length - Skins are generally classed, packed and sold in the following standard wool lengths : 0.5" - 1.0" (13mm - 26mm) 1.0" - 2.0" (26mm - 55mm) Specific higher selection, tannery lines are also produced.
Wool Quality - is broken down into 3 specific types GS - Good to Super " - Wool is of a good colour, free or nearly free of burr and/or seed. May contain light dusty but high yielding skins. ORD - " Ordinary " - Light to moderate burr / seed, earthy, discoloured, heavy conditioned wool - or any combination of those faults in moderate degree. May also include slightly damaged wool. INF - "Inferior" - Heavily burred skins, seedy, earthy, badly discoloured wool or wool of heavy condition, or any combination of those faults as well as damaged wool.
Wool Counts ( See Wool Count expressed in Microns ) Double face requires a combination of a strong pelt and fine wool. As the wool count decreases the pelt becomes stronger but the wool courser. Therefore the most suitable range for this dressing type is 50/56 or 50/58. 44/50 - Coarse woolled English breeds are generally only suitable for nappa production. 50/58 - Merino crossed with an English breed - therefore the term " crossbred ". Produces quick growing, heavier "spring lambs" for meat production. Towards the 58's range this type is commonly referred to as a "fine cross" as the breed is tending more towards Merino fine wool characteristics. 58/64+ - Generally fine wool Merino primarily raised for wool production. Tendency is for the ribby effect of the Merino breed to be prominent.
Pelt Quality Double Face is generally sold in either 90/10 (i/ii) or 80/20 (i/ii). 1st Grade - " Sound Dressing ", being of good shape, free from flay marks and knife cuts, free from seed. Clean, fresh stock. May include light rib, especially about necks. Commonly represented by the figure (i) when being quoted in specifications. 2nd - " Second Dressing ", may include light rib and skins with occasional neck and/or flank cuts and/or faults. May be of slightly asymmetric in shape. May show light belly seed, otherwise free, or practically free of seed. Commonly represented by the figure (ii) when being quoted in specifications. 3rd - " Third Selected Damage " - may show cuts and/or medium rib and/or light to medium seed or be misshapen but the prime area free from serious detect. Commonly represented by the figure (iii) when being quoted in specifications. 4th - " Damaged " - pelts showing heavy rib and/or seed damage and/or misshapen or otherwise damaged. All extremely badly damaged or interior pelts excluded. Commonly represented by the figure (iv) when being quoted in specifications. Pieces - Skins which have been torn into two or more pieces during the take-off from the animal. Mainly used for the toy or mosaic rug production. Packing Salted - Packed on pallets of about 900 to 1000 kgs gross weight, 20 pallets per 20 foot ocean freight container. Pallet quantities vary according to wool lengths and skin types but the usual standard is as follows :
Sales Salted - Sold per piece without stated weights. |
|||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||
|
Copyright
© 1999 - 2006
Woolskin
(Australia)
Pty Ltd |
